Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing
Univ of Hawaii Pr 2014年
Have you ever wondered where waves come from?
Now in its third edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks and will help you learn how to predict surf. You don't need a scientific background to read it, just curiosity and a fascination for waves.